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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan Carr View Post
    That's exactly the problem I had with our house. Even with my SDS Rotary hammer, I burnt out several bits until I got some proper Kango ones from our local builders merchant rather than the ones from a DIY barn. The Kango bits did the job no trouble.

    I had tried gluing a batten up in another room but the plaster (or should I say the cement substrate) is so crap that it came away and took a huge amount of plaster with it.
    Good bits are worth the expense - especially when drilling into concrete.

    One thing to note is let the drill do the work - don't push all your weight into it. The main cause of overheating normally is forcing the drill by not allowing the head to move longitudinally. The hammer in the SDS drill will work better if you don't as it has a far stronger hammer action than most drills that you will probably be used to. Also allow the drill to clear the dust by backing it all the way out and reinserting (SDS are normally better at this than "normal" masonry bits with the fluting on the shaft).

  2. #12
    Established TDF Member Finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan Carr View Post
    That's exactly the problem I had with our house. Even with my SDS Rotary hammer, I burnt out several bits until I got some proper Kango ones from our local builders merchant rather than the ones from a DIY barn. The Kango bits did the job no trouble.
    I'm hopeful that this will do the job as it is the same one in:-
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwt-olc4nso

    I'll find out tonight. If I fail then a rental it shall be. If I fails with a rental I'll get Bob in to do it.

    I'm kind of relying on the bloke in the video. He has accurately described all that has gone wrong for me BUT I am still uncertain about how many levels of hardness there are.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finless View Post
    I'm hopeful that this will do the job as it is the same one in:-
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwt-olc4nso

    I'll find out tonight. If I fail then a rental it shall be. If I fails with a rental I'll get Bob in to do it.

    I'm kind of relying on the bloke in the video. He has accurately described all that has gone wrong for me BUT I am still uncertain about how many levels of hardness there are.
    I have a similar model to the one in the video - mine is Mcallister (so not premium brand) and it will do hard concrete no problem.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finless View Post
    I'm hopeful that this will do the job as it is the same one in:-
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwt-olc4nso
    That's the one I've got and it has done some pretty heavy work. Unfortunately, I've managed to wreck the gearbox helping my son cut a hole for an extractor fan through the two foot thick walls of his house using a diamond tipped holesaw!

  5. #15
    Established TDF Member Finless's Avatar
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    Someone else who likes it. I never even thought about getting a brushless motor.

    I doubt I’ll wear mine out.

    https://youtu.be/jgFq4S3rY4g

  6. #16
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    Have you considered mounting the curtains a bit higher? Window lintels aren't much more than 6 inches high, with a couple of exploratory test holes you could probably find plain brick.

  7. #17
    Established TDF Member Finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobdob View Post
    Have you considered mounting the curtains a bit higher? Window lintels aren't much more than 6 inches high, with a couple of exploratory test holes you could probably find plain brick.
    Not possible. I have the top of the window, then the lintel, then there is a sloping bit (roof rafters covered in lath and plaster (I think) between the lintel and room ceiling. There is really only where I’m drilling at the moment although I might be able to drop down an inch or two but I don’t know how big the lintel is and I’ve already made holes and bought a new drill.

    The window in the next room meets the sloping bit without anything (lintel) in between (Apart from/I assume the wall plate).

  8. #18
    Established TDF Member Nickpicks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finless View Post
    Not possible. I have the top of the window, then the lintel, then there is a sloping bit (roof rafters covered in lath and plaster (I think) between the lintel and room ceiling. There is really only where I’m drilling at the moment although I might be able to drop down an inch or two but I don’t know how big the lintel is and I’ve already made holes and bought a new drill.

    The window in the next room meets the sloping bit without anything (lintel) in between (Apart from/I assume the wall plate).
    Can you extend the pole outside of the width of the window? The lintel probably only extends about 9" past the window reveal.
    Proud to be a boring health and softy crap following sissie!

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickpicks View Post
    Can you extend the pole outside of the width of the window? The lintel probably only extends about 9" past the window reveal.
    I have enough pole (I think but I'm not sure about the curtain). If I go too far past the end then I will end up with a curtained wall.

    I think that I am committed to my holes unless there is a danger of damaging the lintel. Having bought the kit and only need another 5-10mm.

    I assume that some (most?) of the rawl plug is in the plaster rather than the lintel but so long as it fixes tight when being screwed then it'll do for me.

  10. #20
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    Another problem I have with curtain poles is in the next room. I have been forced to fix the end brackets for the pole onto the window frame surround (which is too low really) but I'm now stuck trying to fix a vertical bracket to a horizontal bit of wood to support the pole join in the middle of the window.

    I think a trip to the local metal man for a bit of bracket twisting is in order.

    I suppose I could cut the bottom off the bracket and see if it will hold with just one fixing screw?


 
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