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  1. #1
    Established TDF Member Nickpicks's Avatar
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    Torch Canister Mounting

    I've just bought a "new to me" primary torch.
    My question is how to mount it to the harness waist band?
    The battery canister is a smooth aluminium cylinder.

    I'm thinking that using a couple of jubilee clips to trap a short length of webbing to make a belt loop for the harness to go through. This seems to be what Light Monkey have on their batteries, but it's tricky to tell from the website photos.

    I'll put a strip of inner tube around the canister under the jubilee clip to avoid any possible galvanic corrosion (just the same as a stage rigging band)

    Are there any preferred alternatives to this?
    Proud to be a boring health and softy crap following sissie!

  2. #2
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    Jubilee clips and webbing are spot on mate, another option is metalsub (or equivalent) bracket and mount the light to your cylinders. Makes it easy to remove and charge etc.

  3. #3
    Established TDF Member witchieblackcat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickpicks View Post
    I'm thinking that using a couple of jubilee clips to trap a short length of webbing to make a belt loop for the harness to go through. This seems to be what Light Monkey have on their batteries, but it's tricky to tell from the website photos.
    That's how my Light Monkey works.
    I put an extra weight belt buckle on next to the battery to make sure it can't slip off.

  4. #4
    Established TDF Member Nickpicks's Avatar
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    I have an extra belt buckle to stop it moving.

    My older torch (also a LFM) had a bag around the canister with a couple of webbing loops on it, but I think using jubilee clips will be better.
    Proud to be a boring health and softy crap following sissie!

  5. #5
    Established TDF Member jamesp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickpicks View Post
    I have an extra belt buckle to stop it moving.

    My older torch (also a LFM) had a bag around the canister with a couple of webbing loops on it, but I think using jubilee clips will be better.
    The wonderful thing about jubilee clips, are the hard corners, sticky out bits and potential for sharp edges; if not dealt with, you end up with stress points and chafeing edges that cause problems on other bits of kit.

  6. #6
    Established TDF Member Nickpicks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesp View Post
    The wonderful thing about jubilee clips, are the hard corners, sticky out bits and potential for sharp edges; if not dealt with, you end up with stress points and chafeing edges that cause problems on other bits of kit.
    I was going to go with bits of racing bike inner tube to cover the sticky out bits (just as I have done on the stage rigging)

    And a bastard file to smooth off any sharp bits.

    If there's still chafing edges, I see that Underwater Explorers do webbing sleeves to cover the whole jubilee clip.
    Proud to be a boring health and softy crap following sissie!

  7. #7
    Established TDF Member jamesp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickpicks View Post
    I was going to go with bits of racing bike inner tube to cover the sticky out bits (just as I have done on the stage rigging)

    And a bastard file to smooth off any sharp bits.

    If there's still chafing edges, I see that Underwater Explorers do webbing sleeves to cover the whole jubilee clip.
    Even the webbing sleeve you can end up with a pressure point that will rub your kit/suit.
    Take time planning where all the bits go/end up and which way they face to avoid.

  8. #8
    Remember, remember Adrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesp View Post
    Even the webbing sleeve you can end up with a pressure point that will rub your kit/suit.
    Take time planning where all the bits go/end up and which way they face to avoid.
    Also webbing sleeves may still enable galvanic corrosion of an ali cylinder.
    Bought a house in Devon, drank cider from a lemon.


 

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