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  1. #1
    Established TDF Member Finless's Avatar
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    Header tank / plumbing question.

    Is it easily possible to drain down the tap side of the water system without emptying the header tank? I've got to change a shower controller but can't find any isolator/shut-off valves (I've traced the pipework).

    I would imagine that something like a screw -on/compression-fit snorkel for the outlet in the header tank would be needed in order to allow the pipes to be emptied?

    Someone (sadly no longer 'with us') once told me there was a widget for this but I can't find one online (maybe I misunderstood).
    Last edited by Finless; 31-12-2019 at 02:20 PM.

  2. #2
    Established TDF Member steelemonkey's Avatar
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    Just do it properly, you lazy person. Drain the system and take the opportunity to put in isolators wherever they may be useful in the future. You will thank me later.
    Paul.
    If God had meant us to breathe underwater, he would have given us larger bank balances.
    Human beings were invented by water as a means of moving itself from one place to another.

  3. #3
    Established TDF Member Finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelemonkey View Post
    Just do it properly, you lazy person. Drain the system and take the opportunity to put in isolators wherever they may be useful in the future. You will thank me later.
    I'm not trying to be lazy but, rather, mindful of water conservation and Mum's metered water bill.

    Perhaps I'll leave it until next year?

    It would seem to be a perfectly sensible option. Have a threaded outlet in the header tank onto which a snorkel pipe could be temporarliy fitted (provided the seal was water tight / shouldn't be a problem) then I could open the taps, the snorkel would allow air into the pipes so the water does come out of the taps and I've saved loads (a header tank full)of water? What's not to like?

    Genius idea .... I can see millions being made ...... nobody is allowed to steal this idea AND, when you buy one, you are not allowed to loan yours to someone else!

  4. #4
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    Might be these:

    https://www.toolstation.com/radiator...kaAm8nEALw_wcB

    But usually used on heating side.

    Its also possible that shower cold is fed from mains, shouldn't be but it happens!

    That said it's not hard to let the header drain and then you can add isolation for next time, and have header refilling up to the isolation on the shower in case any other demands are present while you are working on it.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finless View Post
    I'm not trying to be lazy but, rather, mindful of water conservation and Mum's metered water bill.

    Perhaps I'll leave it until next year?
    !
    Tomorrow then?

  6. #6
    Established TDF Member Finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John63 View Post
    Tomorrow then?
    That's about 'the size of it'.

  7. #7
    Prior Member Tim Digger's Avatar
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    Tie up the ball valve in the header tank and let Mum have a shower? Should take care of most of the contents in a useful manner. Course if it is direct from mains as above it won't work.
    There will doubtless be lots along to say why you should not do this!! I would rather bodge electrics than plumbing!
    Evolution is great at solving problems. It's the methods that concern me.
    Tim Digger

  8. #8
    Established TDF Member Nickpicks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finless View Post
    I'm not trying to be lazy but, rather, mindful of water conservation and Mum's metered water bill.
    If it's a typical 50 gallon tank (200 litre) , then the water in it is worth less than a pound. That's how cheap water is in this country.

    If you really don't want to waste the water, then you could use a pipe freezing kit to freeze the outlet pipe. While it's frozen, cut in an isolator valve for next time.

    The pipe freezing kit will cost around 50 times more than the water saved.

    You could put a sheet of plastic over the outlet (from inside the tank) which should stop the water flow and be held in place by the water in the tank (but don't blame me if it doesn't)
    The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.

  9. #9
    Established TDF Member Tel's Avatar
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    Had to do a system recently that had this problem and it was way easier just to drain the the lot, put in a simple
    inline gate valve into the 15mm copper feed. Meant I could isolate the tank in situe without turning the water off
    to the rest of the house and drain down just the tank if any work needed.

    Took aboout 20 mins to drain if that and another 10 to do the job, cost 3

  10. #10
    Established TDF Member Finless's Avatar
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    Bloody Nora! Too many product and price choices!

    I need:-

    2 * 22mm compression isolator valves.
    Pipe cutter (little round job for confined spaces).

    Is there any great variation in the quality of the valves?

    Pipe cutters 6.00 to 20.00+. I should only need to make 4 cuts (maybe 6 if I have to fit a 22m to 15mm reducer near the shower controller) so I guess I won't need a top notch cutter?

    Why do I go online rather than just go to the nearest plumbing emporium? Perhaps I'll have a look in Screwfix on the way home.


 
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