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  1. #1
    Doing it with or without air. Bantam's Avatar
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    Replacing Molex connector on Salvo HID

    So after quite a few years service, the molex connector on the inside of the battery cannister (Salvo HID 21W 9Ah) has eventually given up the ghost, or should I say, the cable going into the molex connector gave up the ghost. Whilst sat on a dive boat in Mull on Saturday morning it decided to part company.

    Thankfully one of my buddies had a leatherman tool so we eventually managed to bodge a fix temporarily, but I know I now need to change the molex connectors as they're a weak link.

    I remember Woz having issues with his doing a similar thing many moons ago, and couldn't find the original posts on "you know where" - so I had a hunt around and today have eventually bought some Anderson PowerPole 15A connectors which seemed to be a better option, especially with some heatshrink strain relief boots to give the cables a fighting chance.

    I fail to believe others haven't had this issue either - so if you've replaced the molex connectors for others, what tips would you pass on? I assume I can just make a wiring diagram and ensure I just replace the connectors like for like - I can set the anderson connectors up so they're keyed / colour coded and I've also got a 3rd colour as well as red and black to ensure the 3rd wire in the charger is catered for. (What is that for?)

  2. #2
    Closed Account: User Requested nickb's Avatar
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    If it's a HID, be absolutely certain about the polarity otherwise you'll bork the ballast.

    The third wire on the battery is connected to a temperature sensor.

  3. #3
    #keepittea ebt's Avatar
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    I swapped to andersens too, they're a far better option. piece of piss, just be very very sure of polarity.

  4. #4
    Doing it with or without air. Bantam's Avatar
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    Well, the deed is done, and it was pretty easy tbh. (I should state I did electrical and electronic engineering BTEC instead of A-Levels so it should be easy for me!)

    I drew a quick diagram showing colours of the wires and their corresponding partner connections, remembering when I put the whole thing together that one set should be right way up, and the other upside down. I also put the green one on at right angles so it didn't take up so much space when you have the battery in the canister. All works pretty well. Only thing left to do is put some heatshrink on the back end of the connections like a boot. I didn't have any to hand, but I know I have some huge heatshrink at work so I can use that.

    So thanks all for your tips and help - another little task completed!


  5. #5
    Established TDF Member Rob Dobson's Avatar
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    Replacing Molex connector on Salvo HID

    Er.... Are those the big-ass 75amp powerpole connectors that you've used...? 😳

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    Closed Account: User Requested nickb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Dobson View Post
    Er.... Are those the big-ass 75amp powerpole connectors that you've used...? 
    Nah, you're looking at it from the wrong angle Rob.

    That would be a pretty thick cable at the back if they were 75A Andersons

  7. #7
    Nav jāuztraucas par manu zirgu Baron015's Avatar
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    Replacing Molex connector on Salvo HID

    A digression but I found my crimping tool flattened the metal part of the Anderson connector and made them hard to insert into the plastic part.

    I crimped a piece of solder along with the wire and then heated it with a blowtorch to melt the solder, hopefully ensuring good electrical connection.



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  8. #8
    Doing it with or without air. Bantam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Dobson View Post
    Er.... Are those the big-ass 75amp powerpole connectors that you've used...? ��
    That would be ace. But sadly way too big for the delrin canister. They're the baby 15A ones - I did think about using the smaller ones but they're not as robust. These 15A ones are big enough (especially now I've put heatshrink on as boots) that the cable isn't stressed at all, but small enough to fit comfortably inside the top of the salvo canister.

  9. #9
    Doing it with or without air. Bantam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron015 View Post
    A digression but I found my crimping tool flattened the metal part of the Anderson connector and made them hard to insert into the plastic part.

    I crimped a piece of solder along with the wire and then heated it with a blowtorch to melt the solder, hopefully ensuring good electrical connection.
    I did think about doing that, but after crimping I used a pair of pliers to re-shape the end (the proper crimping tool makes the end-view of the crimp look like a capital B - whereas other tools make the crimp like a D) so I used a small pin in my tool along the seam of the connector to push the middle in and make the B-shape and then squeezed the sides up to make it fit properly. They did need a bit of assistance to go into the plastic bit, but when they went in they clicked in no issues.


 

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