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  1. #11
    Floater ReallyMadRob's Avatar
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    In my experience... typical 3D printing is good for structural, planar parts but as it's built up in layers is poor at staying non porous or dealing with twisting loads. Although I can print solid I reckon you'd want to do further finishing before you trusted even a small part to stay dry inside - that might include vapour smoothing with something evil :-) That's just to get the body of the print less porous, surface finish would need work to mate faces and o-rings too.

    It would be great for prototyping but you'd have to overengineer and process prints... whereas machining solid material should get you waterproof for free :-)

    Rob

  2. #12
    Established TDF Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebt View Post
    I take it you've tried then? My housing plan was pretty simple, planning on double barrel o rings. From the 'sound' of your post this is ambitious for 3d prints?
    Yes in my opinion it is ambitious.
    However the thing I had printed was only intended to be a check on the form factor of the computer... it was done with melted filament printing.

    Something done on a better printer like one of the resin layering ones or the fancy laser sintering method may work.

    On the other hand... buy a block of acetal from one of a good range of suppliers, get the decent stuff that's been ultrasounded to make sure there is no coking porosity in the middle of the bar and then mill it out... dead easy and consistent.

  3. #13
    #keepittea ebt's Avatar
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    Thanks fellas, confirmed my suspicions there.... I'll go back to the machining options.


 
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