This is a trip report I originally posted on YD. It's my own work and I own the copyright to it.
This has taken an age to come together, partly because I’ve been up to my ears in it and partly because I’ve been waiting for CC to send me his version of the events. To date I’ve not received them so he can chip in with his own version as and when he sees fit
Herein follows the a brief report of our trip to Scapa. The names have been changed to protect the guilty.
Friday 14th September
12:30 Damn! Running late, very bloody late. Timesheet not completed and I have to get round to pick up Scrappy Doo, El Presidente and Wee Pete. Sod it pack the laptop and do it later. Last minute rush round to do the last minute pack. All done and it’s off to the local garage to fill up to the gunwhales with fuel for the road trip. Just as I finish filling up Anthony (the garage owner) sticks the price up a penny a litre. “oi you just cost me an extra 60pâ€!
Then it’s off to Wee Pete. He’s rushing out the door as I arrive. “You’re keen thenâ€! El Presidente also emerges as I arrive and drops his bags in the boot whilst calling shotgun for the entire journey “Well it’s me knees you seeâ€! Finally round to Scrappy Doo’s and a game of musical bags and coats until the boot is stuffed to bursting then we’re on our way.
The route will take us from Weymouth to Edinburgh for leg 1 where we meet up with Gentleman Jules, stay overnight before heading to Scrabster the following morning. Tufty is already rumoured to be near Carlisle with our kit. I’ve got some miles to put down and I want to get past Birmingham before the rush hour starts.
The journey is long and dull. Stop start all the way to Stafford Services. Scrappy Doo makes contact with Gentleman Jules to find out what time the kitchen closes in the hotel. The answer comes back that the chef knocks off at 10pm. It’s going to be touch and go getting there and the stop start traffic is getting frustrating.
Then suddenly the road opens up and it’s time to put some serious miles behind me. Six miles from Edinburgh and a text comes through from Gentleman Jules. Are we in Scotland yet?! “We’ll see you in 10 minutes, get the beers in!
We arrive just before 10pm. It’s been a white knuckle ride but we’re here, I’ll find out if I still have a licence in a couple of weeks! A Chicken Makhani and a cold beer or two later and it’s time to turn in for the night.
Saturday 15th September
We get up and head down to breakfast. All you can eat breakfast, a main meal and a beer for dinner and a room for the night all for less than £30 can’t be bad! Well done Travelodge Learmonth. We load up on breakfast and I make a cheeky sausage and bacon sarnie for the road then we’re off but not before playing musical bags and coats again. We squeeze everything in and then get Gentleman Jules, Wee Pete and Scrappy Doo into the back and are on the road by 9am. Several hours later we’ll discover why Wee Pete looks in pain.
We stop off at Inverness, grab a coffee and have a pit stop in B&Q before heading on our way. The scenery becomes more picturesque with each mile and roads get narrower. Eyes are peeled for seals everytime we cross over or pass near water but we see none. The one blott on the landscape is the turbines. Row upon row of these white monstrosities standing like whirling sentries and ruining an otherwise eye achingly beautiful view....or complementing it if that’s the way you roll!
As we pull in for our last pit stop Wee Pete looks as though he’ll pass out and El Presidente complains the air con is on too high. It transpires that Wee Pete has had one cheek on the seat and the other on the door (looks like it’s a bit cramped in the back)!.
Finally sometime around 1430 we arrive in Scrabster. We now have 4 ½ hours until the ferry leaves. We meet up with Tufty, Nicey, Treddie, Smashie and Von Biggus at the Ferry Inn and chill. Nicey quickly earns his first nickname of “The Interrogator†with his deft cross examination of all comers. I swear he’s ex-intelligence!
A short while later we’re joined by 2/3 of the Calamities. Sadly Canine Calamity will not be joining us on this journey but then I think it might be a full boat with two canines on board!
Time drifts on and before too long we’re a whirlwind of activity trying to get everything loaded into the shipping containers (the ferry was late getting into port but is determined to leave on time) so that’s a single twelve, 6 twinsets, 15 stages, 4 rebreathers, 10 crates, 14 drysuit bags (some did bring more than 1!) and a variety of kit bags, sofnolime drums and clothes bags. Two containers aren’t quite enough really and it’s a bit of a squeeze but we manage. Wee Pete earns his nickname and we meet Yappydog whilst waiting for the containers to arrive. Containers loaded we’re told we have 5 minutes to check in and board.
We make it and the ferry heads off to Stromness whilst we settle down to a well earned pint or two.
Around 2030 the ferry docks and we disembark. We’re told to head round the back of the building to collect the containers and sure enough they’re just being unloaded as we arrive.
All 12 of us muck in pushing and pulling said containers to the dock where Valkyrie is moored. I’d like to say my team won but a slight oversight in navigation on my part meant our lead was well and truly overturned so I got the short straw of taking one of the empty containers back as a punishment for my lack of orienting skills. Knackering work!
Once loaded onto Valkyrie and bunks selected we were summoned to the Galley where Rob went through the boat rules.
• They’re Helen’s knives not screwdrivers or scissors and not to be used by us mere mortals
• No tap dancing on the hatch before 0700 or Helen will tap dance on your head
• No wet kit in the lounge
• No coaxing Doug in to the galley
• No using the upstairs shower when the genny is off
• No dive kit in the camera bath
• No OC kit on the Rebreather bench
• No sofnalime being spread across the deck (please take special note)
• Stay out of the engine room and compressor room – it hurts when they mangle you
• A quick review of diving signals
• A quick discussion about expected run times
All done it was time for a small group of us to go hunting food. The wise ones in the group ate on the ferry. Try as we might we couldn’t find the fish and chip van. (Maybe cos it didn’t arrive until Friday!) And so the not so wise headed to the Ferry Inn. We got there too late as food stopped being served at 2130 . The manager managed to ferret together the last bits of soup and bread for us and we supplemented that by purchasing all the nuts and crisps as well as a couple of pints of beer
Fed, watered and having interacted with the locals (at one point we thought Smashie had found a bedmate for the week) we headed back to the boat and the cosy warmth of our bunks – tomorrow the fun begins.
Sunday 16th September
I awake sometime in the middle of the night and reach across to the cubby hole to retrieve my watch “thonk†my bonce meets the roof of the cabin. The fog clears and I remember where I am. 0327, bugger! I roll over and drift off to sleep.
I awake to a sound of water, rising “thonk†bugger still on a boat I see! Check the watch 0414. I drift off again but this time when I awake it’s a healthier 0640 and I remember the ceiling.
I get up and head up to the lounge. Treddie has obviously fallen out with Smashie as he’s asleep on the sofa! I wander out onto the deck. Feck me it’s cold. I head back down to my cabin and grab a hoodie. Back on deck I have a quick gander round. It’s cold but looking ok otherwise.
We all convene in the galley and make polite conversation over tea and toast. My breakfast special is going down nicely. Toast with peanut butter and marmite! NOM! A couple of comments about how disgusting it is but just as many about how they’ll try it. A few sensible peeps do and realise I speak the truth! The other gastronomic delight of mine is peanut butter and banana sandwich drizzled with marmite. Go on you know you want to try it!
It’s not long before Hazel and Rob rock up and the boat heads out to the first site.
I’m busy convening with nature as Hazel calls us all to the lounge for a dive briefing. I don’t hear the call but I’m a bit mutt and jeff so no surprise there. I walk into the lounge to find everyone looking at me and Hazel uttering the comment “So that concludes the dive briefâ€! Oops! “Just jokingâ€
We are to dive the Karsruhe as a shakedown dive. Everybody’s kit has been rattling round on ferries and in vans so it’s probably a good start to the week to make sure nothing has broken or worked loose on the trip.
The briefing on the Karlsruhe is without doubt the most comprehensive and detailed I have ever heard a skipper give. Having become so used to hearing the few morsels we normally get “Shot’s about there, wreck points x to y, no current and she’s well broken up†I am blown away with the level of detail and information Hazel provides us with. It’s clearly a passion for her.
The shot is near the bow, tied into one of the 5.9inch guns meaning you don’t have to travel far to find them! We head further off to the bow checking out the anchor capstan winches before heading back. I take a few diversions off to what would be the starboard side if the ship were upright. Heading aft we pass the guns again and the armoured control. The bridge is fairly heavily broken up and isn’t too recognisable as what it once was. You then come to the area of salvage that was once the engine room.
To borrow a quote from Tufty “It never ceases to amaze me how salvors could blow great holes in wrecks and then go back down and know exactly what bits were of valueâ€!
Further aft we come across a stern capstan winch and then spend a little time looking at the mine laying tubes before heading shallower and back to the shot to surface. A cracking start. We surface and de-kit and a mug of hot tea is thrust into my cold hands. Ahhh heaven, I relish the hot liquid warming me slowly from the core. We’re scheduled to dive the F2 & YC21 in the afternoon so Rob rushes round taking gas orders for the second dive.
A short while later the bell is rung and we convene in the Galley for the feast. In the immortal lines of The Eagles we “stab it with our steely knives but†we “just can’t kill the beastâ€. Helen’s cooking is not just fabulous, it’s abundant and I feel almost guilty of the amount of food we’ve left behind although I’m assured not a scrap goes to waste. We also get a chance to become aquainted with the hot sauces. “One f*ckin drop at a time†is not bad for a kiddie sauce. I add a couple and taste. In the end around 6-8 is about right for me.
Over lunch we’re treated once again to a first class briefing on the next dive. Soon after lunch it’s time to kit up again and drop in on the wreck. Treddie and I decide to take our stages in and have a run through on Gas Switching as he’s on a new computer.
Von Biggus, Treddie and I drop in and follow the shot down to the wreck below. It comes into view quite quickly as the viz is not to bad at around 5-8m horizontal and 10-12m vertical. We have a good mooch around the barge before heading off to the F2. After one circuit the current is picking up, we have a quick look at one of the high speed winches in between the barge and F2 before heading back to the barge.
It’s knackering work finning against the flow and in the end we decide to head back to the surface. We get to 6m and practice the switch without any problems.
Back on board we dekit and place our orders for the morning dive and set about recounting the dives and our various encounters. Having showered and changed and returned to port we congregate in the lounge before the bell summons us to dinner. A fantastic three course feast follows and the gauntlet is cast down as to whether Tufty will gain weight or not this week.
After dinner Tufty, Smashie, Wee Pete and I head to the Ferry Bridge Inn to assume our position by the bar for a couple of well earned pints. It’s tough going drinking after the feast we’ve just indulged ourselves in but somehow we manage it.
Suitably fed and watered we retire back to the boat for some further banter before retiring to our bunks to dream of the diving to come.
--------------End of Pt I ---------------------
This has taken an age to come together, partly because I’ve been up to my ears in it and partly because I’ve been waiting for CC to send me his version of the events. To date I’ve not received them so he can chip in with his own version as and when he sees fit
Herein follows the a brief report of our trip to Scapa. The names have been changed to protect the guilty.
Friday 14th September
12:30 Damn! Running late, very bloody late. Timesheet not completed and I have to get round to pick up Scrappy Doo, El Presidente and Wee Pete. Sod it pack the laptop and do it later. Last minute rush round to do the last minute pack. All done and it’s off to the local garage to fill up to the gunwhales with fuel for the road trip. Just as I finish filling up Anthony (the garage owner) sticks the price up a penny a litre. “oi you just cost me an extra 60pâ€!
Then it’s off to Wee Pete. He’s rushing out the door as I arrive. “You’re keen thenâ€! El Presidente also emerges as I arrive and drops his bags in the boot whilst calling shotgun for the entire journey “Well it’s me knees you seeâ€! Finally round to Scrappy Doo’s and a game of musical bags and coats until the boot is stuffed to bursting then we’re on our way.
The route will take us from Weymouth to Edinburgh for leg 1 where we meet up with Gentleman Jules, stay overnight before heading to Scrabster the following morning. Tufty is already rumoured to be near Carlisle with our kit. I’ve got some miles to put down and I want to get past Birmingham before the rush hour starts.
The journey is long and dull. Stop start all the way to Stafford Services. Scrappy Doo makes contact with Gentleman Jules to find out what time the kitchen closes in the hotel. The answer comes back that the chef knocks off at 10pm. It’s going to be touch and go getting there and the stop start traffic is getting frustrating.
Then suddenly the road opens up and it’s time to put some serious miles behind me. Six miles from Edinburgh and a text comes through from Gentleman Jules. Are we in Scotland yet?! “We’ll see you in 10 minutes, get the beers in!
We arrive just before 10pm. It’s been a white knuckle ride but we’re here, I’ll find out if I still have a licence in a couple of weeks! A Chicken Makhani and a cold beer or two later and it’s time to turn in for the night.
Saturday 15th September
We get up and head down to breakfast. All you can eat breakfast, a main meal and a beer for dinner and a room for the night all for less than £30 can’t be bad! Well done Travelodge Learmonth. We load up on breakfast and I make a cheeky sausage and bacon sarnie for the road then we’re off but not before playing musical bags and coats again. We squeeze everything in and then get Gentleman Jules, Wee Pete and Scrappy Doo into the back and are on the road by 9am. Several hours later we’ll discover why Wee Pete looks in pain.
We stop off at Inverness, grab a coffee and have a pit stop in B&Q before heading on our way. The scenery becomes more picturesque with each mile and roads get narrower. Eyes are peeled for seals everytime we cross over or pass near water but we see none. The one blott on the landscape is the turbines. Row upon row of these white monstrosities standing like whirling sentries and ruining an otherwise eye achingly beautiful view....or complementing it if that’s the way you roll!
As we pull in for our last pit stop Wee Pete looks as though he’ll pass out and El Presidente complains the air con is on too high. It transpires that Wee Pete has had one cheek on the seat and the other on the door (looks like it’s a bit cramped in the back)!.
Finally sometime around 1430 we arrive in Scrabster. We now have 4 ½ hours until the ferry leaves. We meet up with Tufty, Nicey, Treddie, Smashie and Von Biggus at the Ferry Inn and chill. Nicey quickly earns his first nickname of “The Interrogator†with his deft cross examination of all comers. I swear he’s ex-intelligence!
A short while later we’re joined by 2/3 of the Calamities. Sadly Canine Calamity will not be joining us on this journey but then I think it might be a full boat with two canines on board!
Time drifts on and before too long we’re a whirlwind of activity trying to get everything loaded into the shipping containers (the ferry was late getting into port but is determined to leave on time) so that’s a single twelve, 6 twinsets, 15 stages, 4 rebreathers, 10 crates, 14 drysuit bags (some did bring more than 1!) and a variety of kit bags, sofnolime drums and clothes bags. Two containers aren’t quite enough really and it’s a bit of a squeeze but we manage. Wee Pete earns his nickname and we meet Yappydog whilst waiting for the containers to arrive. Containers loaded we’re told we have 5 minutes to check in and board.
We make it and the ferry heads off to Stromness whilst we settle down to a well earned pint or two.
Around 2030 the ferry docks and we disembark. We’re told to head round the back of the building to collect the containers and sure enough they’re just being unloaded as we arrive.
All 12 of us muck in pushing and pulling said containers to the dock where Valkyrie is moored. I’d like to say my team won but a slight oversight in navigation on my part meant our lead was well and truly overturned so I got the short straw of taking one of the empty containers back as a punishment for my lack of orienting skills. Knackering work!
Once loaded onto Valkyrie and bunks selected we were summoned to the Galley where Rob went through the boat rules.
• They’re Helen’s knives not screwdrivers or scissors and not to be used by us mere mortals
• No tap dancing on the hatch before 0700 or Helen will tap dance on your head
• No wet kit in the lounge
• No coaxing Doug in to the galley
• No using the upstairs shower when the genny is off
• No dive kit in the camera bath
• No OC kit on the Rebreather bench
• No sofnalime being spread across the deck (please take special note)
• Stay out of the engine room and compressor room – it hurts when they mangle you
• A quick review of diving signals
• A quick discussion about expected run times
All done it was time for a small group of us to go hunting food. The wise ones in the group ate on the ferry. Try as we might we couldn’t find the fish and chip van. (Maybe cos it didn’t arrive until Friday!) And so the not so wise headed to the Ferry Inn. We got there too late as food stopped being served at 2130 . The manager managed to ferret together the last bits of soup and bread for us and we supplemented that by purchasing all the nuts and crisps as well as a couple of pints of beer
Fed, watered and having interacted with the locals (at one point we thought Smashie had found a bedmate for the week) we headed back to the boat and the cosy warmth of our bunks – tomorrow the fun begins.
Sunday 16th September
I awake sometime in the middle of the night and reach across to the cubby hole to retrieve my watch “thonk†my bonce meets the roof of the cabin. The fog clears and I remember where I am. 0327, bugger! I roll over and drift off to sleep.
I awake to a sound of water, rising “thonk†bugger still on a boat I see! Check the watch 0414. I drift off again but this time when I awake it’s a healthier 0640 and I remember the ceiling.
I get up and head up to the lounge. Treddie has obviously fallen out with Smashie as he’s asleep on the sofa! I wander out onto the deck. Feck me it’s cold. I head back down to my cabin and grab a hoodie. Back on deck I have a quick gander round. It’s cold but looking ok otherwise.
We all convene in the galley and make polite conversation over tea and toast. My breakfast special is going down nicely. Toast with peanut butter and marmite! NOM! A couple of comments about how disgusting it is but just as many about how they’ll try it. A few sensible peeps do and realise I speak the truth! The other gastronomic delight of mine is peanut butter and banana sandwich drizzled with marmite. Go on you know you want to try it!
It’s not long before Hazel and Rob rock up and the boat heads out to the first site.
I’m busy convening with nature as Hazel calls us all to the lounge for a dive briefing. I don’t hear the call but I’m a bit mutt and jeff so no surprise there. I walk into the lounge to find everyone looking at me and Hazel uttering the comment “So that concludes the dive briefâ€! Oops! “Just jokingâ€
We are to dive the Karsruhe as a shakedown dive. Everybody’s kit has been rattling round on ferries and in vans so it’s probably a good start to the week to make sure nothing has broken or worked loose on the trip.
The briefing on the Karlsruhe is without doubt the most comprehensive and detailed I have ever heard a skipper give. Having become so used to hearing the few morsels we normally get “Shot’s about there, wreck points x to y, no current and she’s well broken up†I am blown away with the level of detail and information Hazel provides us with. It’s clearly a passion for her.
The shot is near the bow, tied into one of the 5.9inch guns meaning you don’t have to travel far to find them! We head further off to the bow checking out the anchor capstan winches before heading back. I take a few diversions off to what would be the starboard side if the ship were upright. Heading aft we pass the guns again and the armoured control. The bridge is fairly heavily broken up and isn’t too recognisable as what it once was. You then come to the area of salvage that was once the engine room.
To borrow a quote from Tufty “It never ceases to amaze me how salvors could blow great holes in wrecks and then go back down and know exactly what bits were of valueâ€!
Further aft we come across a stern capstan winch and then spend a little time looking at the mine laying tubes before heading shallower and back to the shot to surface. A cracking start. We surface and de-kit and a mug of hot tea is thrust into my cold hands. Ahhh heaven, I relish the hot liquid warming me slowly from the core. We’re scheduled to dive the F2 & YC21 in the afternoon so Rob rushes round taking gas orders for the second dive.
A short while later the bell is rung and we convene in the Galley for the feast. In the immortal lines of The Eagles we “stab it with our steely knives but†we “just can’t kill the beastâ€. Helen’s cooking is not just fabulous, it’s abundant and I feel almost guilty of the amount of food we’ve left behind although I’m assured not a scrap goes to waste. We also get a chance to become aquainted with the hot sauces. “One f*ckin drop at a time†is not bad for a kiddie sauce. I add a couple and taste. In the end around 6-8 is about right for me.
Over lunch we’re treated once again to a first class briefing on the next dive. Soon after lunch it’s time to kit up again and drop in on the wreck. Treddie and I decide to take our stages in and have a run through on Gas Switching as he’s on a new computer.
Von Biggus, Treddie and I drop in and follow the shot down to the wreck below. It comes into view quite quickly as the viz is not to bad at around 5-8m horizontal and 10-12m vertical. We have a good mooch around the barge before heading off to the F2. After one circuit the current is picking up, we have a quick look at one of the high speed winches in between the barge and F2 before heading back to the barge.
It’s knackering work finning against the flow and in the end we decide to head back to the surface. We get to 6m and practice the switch without any problems.
Back on board we dekit and place our orders for the morning dive and set about recounting the dives and our various encounters. Having showered and changed and returned to port we congregate in the lounge before the bell summons us to dinner. A fantastic three course feast follows and the gauntlet is cast down as to whether Tufty will gain weight or not this week.
After dinner Tufty, Smashie, Wee Pete and I head to the Ferry Bridge Inn to assume our position by the bar for a couple of well earned pints. It’s tough going drinking after the feast we’ve just indulged ourselves in but somehow we manage it.
Suitably fed and watered we retire back to the boat for some further banter before retiring to our bunks to dream of the diving to come.
--------------End of Pt I ---------------------
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